Set-up
Our off display ball python reside in Matrix Rack Systems. These racks are essentially thermostatically controlled heated shelves with sterilite containers serving as cages. We have used this set-up with excellent success (both in maintaining and breeding this species). Although our primary emphasis is on education, we do breed several species. Adult bp's are kept in sweater box sized boxes (24" x 16"). Each box has 2 rows of ventilation holes drilled around the perimeter to provide proper air exchange (holes are approximately 2-3" off of the floor). The flex watt heat tape is located at the rear of each cage and is connected to a Helix thermostat (set at 90-92 degrees F.). We use several layers of newspaper as a substrate and each cage has a water bowl and hide area. We limit handling to 2-3 times per week (for no more than 10 minutes at a time). Our education/exhibit animals are rotated to avoid stress from overhandling and in being on exibit. Some of our larger, off display females reside in 3' Neodesha cages which work very well. Our ball pythons are fed frozen/thawed mice and/or rats. The feeding schedule is dictated by seasons and willingness to feed by the snakes. Typically, we offer food to hatchlings every five days while adults are fed every 7-10 days. Pre-breeding females and post oviposition mothers are put on an optimal feeding schedule (every 5 days).

Breeding "recipe"
We have taken a very simplistic approach to breeding this species (which has been met with excellent success). Realize, however, that this is what works for us. Other facilities may have to make changes (or tweak it a bit) to their breeding strategies/set-ups to best meet their needs. It is also important to note that we do not breed our females every year. Instead, we alternate years so that we can keep them in tip top shape. Rob Carmichael owns three ball pythons (2.1) that have been in captivity since the 1970's. All three are still excellent breeders! The breeding strategy we use is similar to that used by Seven Generations Reptiles who gets much of the credit.

From February through early November, we keep our heat tapes on a 24-hour cycle set at 90-92 deg. F. This creates a thermal gradient of 78-80 deg. F. on the cool side up to the mid 80's on the warm end with a localized warm area of 90-92 degrees F.

Beginning in early November, we attach heat tapes to a household timer so that they are on a 12/12 cycle (12 hours on, 12 hours off). Day temps remain the same but may be a little lower due to seasonal fluctuations (thermostat still set at 90-92 deg. F.), however, when the heat tapes are shut off at night, the ambient temperatures drop to approximately 70-72 degrees F. It is this variance between day/night temps that stimulates breeding behavior. By early December, we begin introducing one male to one female. Breeding usually begins within minutes, however, we leave together for 3-5 days, separate for a week, and introduced again. After 4-5 pairings, we usually see gravid females. Feeding is reduced during this period (and oftentimes, bp's will refuse food during the cooling/breeding period). We generally offer food every 3 weeks just in case there is an inclination to feed (which are smaller sized meals). We also offer periodic vitamin supplements for our females but be careful to not overdo it.

Gravid females will typically bask in an inverted, belly-up position. This is a very good sign! Make sure that you include an egg laying box which can be as simple as a plastic cat litter pan filled with 3" of slightly dampened spaghnum moss. Eggs are usually laid in the spring. Once eggs are laid, you have two choices: 1) allow mother to naturally brood her own eggs, or, 2) take eggs away and put in an incubator. Both methods work very well and we have had great success in both. Most people put the eggs in an incubator. Make sure that eggs are put in the exact same way they were taken away from the mother (don't turn them upside down or move them around). Most likely, eggs will be stuck togetherc.don't unstick them! Put eggs in a large plastic container with 3-4" of slightly dampened vermiculite or moss and include a container of water to maintain high relative humidity but at the same time preventing the substrate from getting too moist. Poke a couple of ventilation holes to allow air exchange but still keeping humidity levels high (sometimes, the egg mass is so big that you have to just place them directly into the hovabatorcthis still works very well). You may have to moisten the substrate every week (but don't overdo it!). Set the incubator at 88-90 deg. F. and eggs should begin hatching at 50-60 days. Once hatched, put the hatchlings into a similar rack system as adults (shoe box sized cages work great). Set the heat tapes slightly cooler than the adults (somewhere around 86-88 deg. F.). Hatchlings usually don't start feeding until the 3-week mark. Most babies need a live fuzzy to kick start them but after 3-5 feedings they can be quickly switched to dead prey.

Questions?
Contact Rob Carmichael, Program Manager of Wildlife Education, at 847-615-4388 or email at: Carmichr@citylf.lfc.edu

The Wildlife Discovery Center features many Illinois native and non-native herps including endangered and exotic species. We also keep all four native species of venomous snakes and have several non-natives such as gila monsters and diamondbacked rattlers. In addition to herps, we also incorporate birds of prey such as our red-tailed hawk and a great horned owl.

We are currently restoring an old gentleman's farm which will be the future site of our Wildlife Discovery Center. Here, we will greatly expand our displays, exhibits and programs. Several interesting field research studies involving herps are underway at this site which has been identified by the Nature Conservancy as being the finest example of a black soil, tall grass prairie in the U.S. We are completely funded by donations, sponsors, and honorariums when we present programs. If you would like to make a tax deductible donation, you can make a check payable to the City of Lake Forest's Wildlife Fund. A receipt will be mailed to you. You will also be put on our mailing list and will receive our monthly newsletter which is packed with all kinds of interesting information.

copyright (C) Rob Carmichael, all rights reserved.

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